The plumber feeds a small waterproof camera on a flexible cable into your drain through an outside access point, then watches live footage on a screen as it travels down the pipe. By the end of the visit you’ll both know what’s causing the problem, roughly where it sits in the yard and what state the pipe is in, without anyone digging. You can watch the screen the whole time.
Most people book a camera inspection after the same drain has blocked twice, or after a plumber has said “we should have a look inside that line”. It’s fair to want to know what you’re paying for before you say yes. Here’s how the visit runs, from the moment the plumber walks up the driveway to the moment you have a quote in your hand.
Step 1: The plumber finds a way into the line
The camera rarely goes in through your kitchen sink. It goes in through an access point on the drain itself, usually one of these:
- An inspection opening. A capped length of PVC pipe sticking up out of the ground or a garden bed, put there so plumbers can get into the line without digging.
- The overflow relief gully. The round grate outside, usually near the bathroom or laundry, that lets sewage spill outside instead of inside if the line blocks. The plumber lifts the grate and goes in from there.
- A boundary trap. Some older Central Coast homes have one near the front fence, where the house line meets the sewer connection.
If there’s no usable access point, the plumber may need to lift a toilet pan to get in. That’s a bigger job, so you’ll hear about it before it happens.
Expect a few questions first. Which fixtures play up?
Is it worse after rain, or when the washing machine empties? Has anyone cleared this drain before? The answers tell the plumber which branch of the line to run first.
Step 2: The camera travels down the pipe while you watch
The camera head is waterproof and carries its own lights. It sits on the end of a semi-rigid cable that the plumber pushes off a reel, metre by metre, and the picture shows up live on a monitor beside them. A counter on the reel shows how far along the pipe the camera has travelled.
At Turner & Co Plumbing, the camera goes in before any tool does, and you see what we see on screen. Pull up a chair if you like. “What’s that?” is a good question to ask while it’s running, and the plumber would rather explain it then than hand you a verdict at the end.
Step 3: The footage shows what’s actually in the pipe
A few minutes of footage usually settles what’s been going on. These are the things a camera picks up most often:
- Tree roots. Fine, hair-like strands at a joint, or a matted ball that fills the pipe. Roots get in through small gaps and feed on what flows past. Our post on how to tell if tree roots are in your drains covers the warning signs.
- Fat and grease build-up. A grey or white crust that narrows the pipe, most common on the kitchen branch.
- Cracks and broken sections. Anything from a hairline split to a section that has collapsed.
- Displaced joints. One length of pipe has dropped out of line with the next, leaving a lip that catches waste. Common in older clay lines where the ground has moved.
- A sag. A dip in the line where water sits instead of draining. On screen, the camera disappears under water partway along.
- Foreign objects. Wipes, toys, and now and then a broken piece of somebody else’s drain cable.
The footage also shows what the pipe is made of: clay (earthenware), PVC or cast iron. That matters for what happens next, because older clay pipe can’t always take full-pressure jetting. Our guide to drain snakes vs hydro jetting explains why the pipe’s condition decides the method.
Step 4: The plumber marks the problem from above ground
Knowing there’s a root ball is half the answer. Knowing where it is saves the other half. The distance counter tells the plumber how far along the line the problem sits. Most drain cameras also carry a small transmitter in the camera head, so the plumber can walk the yard with a handheld locator, find the signal and mark the spot on the ground, with a rough depth. If a repair is needed, that means one hole in the right place instead of a trench across the lawn.
Location also answers a question people often don’t think to ask: whose pipe is it? Under Central Coast Council’s guide to sewer maintenance and repairs, the property owner looks after the pipes up to and including the point of connection, and Council looks after its sewer beyond that. Footage that shows exactly where the fault sits is the evidence for which side it’s on.
Sometimes the line has to be cleared first
A camera can’t see through sludge or a pipe full of standing water. If the drain is completely blocked, the plumber may need to clear it with an electric eel or a jetter first, then run the camera again to see what caused it. If that’s the case, you’ll have a written quote for the clearing before any tool comes out.
How long it all takes depends on the property. A straightforward house line can be done in a single visit. Clearing the line first, or running several branches, adds time.
Step 5: You go through the footage together and get a written quote
Once the camera’s out, the plumber talks you through what they saw and what it means. Sometimes the answer is good news. It might just be a one-off blockage in a sound pipe that doesn’t need any more work. Otherwise the options usually come down to clearing and keeping an eye on it, a full jet clean, or repairing the damaged section.
Whatever’s recommended, you’ll have a written quote in hand, and that quote is the price. If we find something else once the work starts, we stop, explain what we’ve found, and you decide. If our workmanship ever fails, we come back at no charge.
Two things worth knowing at this point:
- Ask for a copy of the footage. It’s handy if you sell the house, make an insurance claim, or want to compare against a future inspection.
- Repairs come with paperwork. If the inspection leads to repair work on your sewer line, Central Coast Council’s plumbing and drainage rules require the plumber to give both you and Council a drainage diagram of the work within two days of finishing. Keep it with your house papers.
Other questions about CCTV drain inspections
Can a camera inspection damage an old pipe?
No. The camera is pushed gently along the line and puts no pressure on the pipe, so it’s safe in old clay drains. Jetting is the step that needs care with old pipe, which is one reason the camera usually goes in first.
Do I need to be home for the inspection?
It helps. You can watch the footage and ask questions as it runs. If you can’t be there, the plumber needs access to the outside access point, and it’s worth asking for a copy of the recording.
Is it worth getting the drains inspected before buying a house?
For an older home, or one with big trees near the sewer line, it’s worth considering. A standard pre-purchase building inspection doesn’t usually look inside the sewer line, so root intrusion or a cracked pipe can go unnoticed until after settlement.
Getting ready for the plumber’s visit
A few minutes of preparation makes the inspection quicker and the findings more useful.
Start by finding the access point by looking for the gully grate or a capped pipe in the garden, then move any pot plants, mulch, or bikes off it.
It also helps to note the pattern by writing down which fixtures play up, when the issue started, and whether rain or the washing machine makes it worse. Digging out the history, such as previous clearings, an extension, or an earlier repair on the line, will give the plumber valuable context to read the footage. Finally, sort the gate and the dog so there is clear and safe access to the side of the house to save time on the day.
When you are ready, give us a call on 0452 216 695 and ask for a camera inspection. Tell us which drains have been playing up and the plumber will know where to start. You can read more about how we diagnose and clear drains on our blocked drain service page.
